Frequently Asked Questions

Pool water chemistry along with proper filtration is the key to clean healthy water. It doesn’t matter if you have 100 or 1,000,000 gallons of water, the same balance levels and chemical types are required—only the quantity will vary. Everything that enters the body of water affects water balance: swimmers, rain, pollution, animals and chemicals.

Every pool, each season, creates its own demand for different chemicals. The pool in your neighbor’s yard, with the same system and environment may react totally different then your own. Every pool also develops a pattern each season. After observing how your pool reacts to different bather levels, rain, and the environment you will get a handle on your pools chemistry pattern and what’s required to keep the water balanced. Call us today to learn more about the acceted levels for balanced pool or spa water!

With gas heat, gas is burned and generates heat to heat your pool. With a heat pump, heat is transferred from the surrounding air to the pool water. Gas heaters can operate in almost any climate, and at almost any time of the year. Heat pumps must have heat available in the air before they can heat the pool. Heat pumps are designed to maintain consistent pool temperatures throughout the normal swim season.

The best way to save on pool heating costs is to obtain a thermal barrier. Most of a pool’s heat is lost during the evening, through evaporation. By using a solar cover or other thermal barrier, less heat is lost and less gas is needed to bring the pool back to desired temperature.

A niche is a housing that is permanently mounted in the pool wall, while the light is a “fixture” that is secured into the niche.

A 12V light receives its power from a transformer, which steps down 120V to 12 V.  120V is your standard house voltage. Some areas of the country do not allow 120V lights. The brightness is equal for either voltage because brightness is measured by the bulbs wattage.

ALL POWER TO THE LIGHT MUST BE OFF.  This includes the circuit breaker and the light switch. Once the power is verified to be off, unscrew the light fixture from the niche. There should be a single mounting screw in the 12 o’clock position; loosen the screw and lift the light onto the pool deck. (When the light was first installed, the installer should have left excess cord).  Depending on the age of the light, there may be a clamp or a back securing ring with nuts holding the light onto the lens. Expose the bulb, unscrew and install the new bulb.

NOTE:

When replacing a bulb, you should replace the lens gasket, as a precaution. If you replace the bulb and the light continues not to work, your gasket might be bad. Lubricate the new lens gasket, resecure the lens and faceplate and secure into the niche.

We recommend you consult a licensed electrician for any electrical work.

LEDs are light emitting diodes. They are housed on a circuit board. The circuit board controls the color and intensity of each diode. Using red, green and blue different colors are created depending on the numbers of each color and their intensity.

The OmniHub should have already been configured for use with the home’s router to allow for remote control through the web. This procedure is covered in the Configuration Wizard information found in the Installation manual. After configuration, an account must be created to allow access to the OmniHub from web enabled devices. If this has not already been done by the installer, follow the procedure below. 1. Using an ordinary web browser, go to www.haywardomnilogic.com. If you don’t already have an account, select “Register New User” and set up a new account. 2. Log in to your account. 3. Register your OmniHub. Registering will require you to answer a series of questions about your OmniHub. When asked for your Time Zone, be sure to enter the same time zone as the physical location of the installed OmniHub, otherwise schedules will be inaccurate. You’ll also be asked for an MSP System ID. This number can be found directly from the OmniHub. To find your unit’s MSP ID, follow the procedure below. After the MSP is accepted, the OmniHub will be linked to your account. You’ll be able to access the OmniHub at any time from your browser by logging into your account at haywardomnilogic.com. For mobile devices, download the “OmniLogic” app from your device’s app store. Login to your account through the app and you should see the OmniHub. 

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Our vinyl manufacturer has invested a great deal of time and money into discovering the causes of and the prevention of wrinkling. Wrinkles that develop in swimming pool liners after installation are caused by the vinyl absorbing water and thereby changing dimensions. Testing has shown that high levels of chlorine or bromine will initiate excessive water absorption into the vinyl liner and lead to wrinkles. Low pH and cyanuric acid stabilizer are also factors in wrinkle formation because the activity level of the chlorine is affected by pH and stabilizer level.

Our experience has shown that the use of trichloroisocyanuric acid sanitizer (Trichlor) and low pH levels can cause wrinkling of your vinyl liner. Alkaline sanitizers (Hydochlorite) and non- chlorine sanitizer systems have been found to be safer to use with vinyl liners

Contaminants buildup: When swimmer wastes and other contaminants build up, the result is “combined chlorine”. Shock the pool!!!

Chemical residue: Using a calcium hypochlorite shock such as (*Shock *Sock-It *Shock-it *Burn Out *Break Out) can result in a residue build up and cloudy water. If the water looks like chalk or milk, it is usually the result of using a lot of calcium hypochlorite shock. To use this type of shock, especially in vinyl liner pools to prevent bleaching of the liner, you must:

• Fill a bucket about 1/2 full of water
• Add Shock – do not stir – let sit for a few minutes – pour only the liquid into the pool
• Discard the residue
• Do not try to dissolve the residue

Water Out of Balance: A high pH, high Total Alkaline or High Calcium Hardness will cause cloudy water. Test the water!!

Algae: Algae is a possible cause of cloudy water.

Poor Filtration: Is the filter system running a significant number of hours every day? During the swim season, the filter needs to run a minimum of 10 to 12 hours daily.

Pools with cloudy water or algae.

• Adjust pH to 7.2-7.6
• Add algaecide
• Add shock
• Add flocking agent
• Run filter 1 hour – turn off & leave off overnight
• Next day vacuum to waste

Metals: The presence of metals in the water such as iron (reddish-brown), copper (blue-green) or manganese (brown-red) can cause cloudy water. To remove the metals:

• Add 1 quart flocking agent
• Add 1 quart Majestic Blue
• Run filter 1 hour; turn off overnight
• Vacuum to waste
• When pool is completely clear, add a stain & scale preventer to remove any stains

Pool water composition always includes some undesirable elements that actually contaminate the water and reduce the efficiency of the disinfectant or sanitizer. Material such as hair spray, suntan oil, cosmetics, perspiration and other organic material react to combine with the chlorine in the water to form “combined chlorine”. Once “combined chlorine” forms, it acts as a very poor disinfectant, contributing to eye and skin irritations and the forming of unpleasant chlorine odor. Pools with this problem are often inaccurately accused of having too much chlorine.

Routine shock treatment is necessary to destroy combined chlorine compounds and restore the chlorine sanitizer to “free chlorine” efficiency. A pool can be shock treated by adding large doses of chlorine, commonly referred to as super chlorination, or by adding a non-chlorine shock.

• Follow test kit instructions (test strips are easier to use than kits)

• Use fresh reagents – shelf life for liquid reagents is only one year.

• Rinse out test cell with pool water before using.

• Retrieve water sample at elbow depth from deep end of the pool.

Most Important Pool Side Tests: Free Chlorine – pH – Total alkalinity — Free chlorine is the unused, effective chlorine that you want in your pool. — pH a number of influences can bring out rapid shifts in the pool’s pH These include:

• Rain

• Swimmer wastes

• Refill water

• pH of various pool chemicals

CAL HYPO – pH 11.7

SODIUM HYPOCHLORITE – pH 13

BROMINE TABLETS – pH 3.6

SODIUM DRICHLORO – pH 6.0

LITHIUM HYPOCHLORITE – pH 10.5

CHLORINE TABLETS – pH 2.9

CHLORINE GAS – pH 2.0